Re-Establishing Credit

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If you’re reading this page, chances are you’ve reviewed a copy of your credit report and found some unpleasant surprises. Or maybe the fact that you have bad credit is not an unexpected discovery. Either way, here are some steps you can take to begin dealing with the problem.

Repay Debts & Manage Money

If your credit problems stem from too much debt, it’s time to create a debt repayment plan. The only way you can avoid a repeat performance of past financial problems is to change the way you handle your money. Start by analyzing your spending habits, creating financial goals, and setting spending priorities.

Buying on credit makes it easy for you to lose track of how much you’re spending each month. To reduce your spending, try paying for everything with cash. When you pay with cash or even a check, you are forced to limit your spending to the amount of funds you have in your checking account.

Apply for Secured Credit

If you have declared bankruptcy or have had your credit cards revoked, you’ll need to find a way to prove that you can handle credit responsibly. One way to do this is to apply for a secured credit card. A secured credit card requires a specified dollar amount to be deposited with the card issuer. These funds are then put on hold and a credit card is issued with a line of credit equal to the amount you have on deposit. If you make payments as agreed for approximately one year, the creditor may then release the funds held as security and issue an unsecured card. Be sure to look for hidden fees and charges. Take time to shop around for the best interest rates and lowest annual fees.

Apply for Unsecured Credit

A local department store may be more likely to issue you a credit card than a national creditor. If you are granted credit, show them that you are now financially responsible by paying all your bills on time!

Need to tune up your credit? Check out our do-it yourself Credit Repair Manual here!

Keeping Credit Clean

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How can you make sure that your credit report is painting a positive picture of you? Just follow these simple rules for establishing good credit and ensuring that you are a good credit risk.

* Rule 1: Pay your bills on time
It sounds simple, but we all know how life’s curve balls can make things difficult. That’s why it’s important to learn how to manage your money wisely.

* Rule 2: Avoid having too much debt
You can accomplish this by reducing the number of credit cards you have and keeping your balances low. A good rule of thumb is to have only one or two major credit cards and use them for emergencies only. If you must charge something, make sure you can pay it off at the end of each month.

Online Debt Assessment.

* Rule 3: Limit the number of inquiries into your credit and don’t open several new accounts at once
Too many inquiries in a short period of time may be seen as an indication that you are actively seeking credit, perhaps because of financial problems or desperation. In the same way, opening several new accounts at the same time may also be interpreted as a sign of financial trouble. To avoid this perception, be selective when you shop around for credit. Limit the number of inquiries by creditors and keep your credit accounts to a minimum.

* Rule 4: Check up on your credit report at least once a year
Even if you have been careful to follow all the rules and pay your bills on time, there may be incorrect or outdated information on your credit report that is hurting your credit profile. To ensure the accuracy of your credit report, contact one or more of the reporting agencies listed below to obtain a copy. The cost is usually less than $20.

o Equifax Credit Information Service
P.O. Box 105783, Atlanta, GA 30348
http://www.equifax.com

o Experian
ATTN: NCAC
P.O. Box 2104, Allen, TX 75013-2104
1-800-682-7654
http://www.experian.com

o Trans Union
P.O. Box 390, Springfield, PA 19064-0390
1-800-888-4213
http://www.transunion.com
Need to tune up your credit? Check out our do-it yourself Credit Repair Manual here!

Disputing Errors

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As we’ve already mentioned, you should carefully review each section of your credit report to determine if it contains incorrect or outdated information. If it does, send a Dispute Letter to notify the credit bureau. Under the law the credit bureau has 30 days to verify the information to insure that it is correct. If the bureau cannot verify the disputed information, it must be deleted from your credit report.

Use the 100 Word Statement

If you dispute information on a credit report that you believe to be incorrect, the creditor may disagree. If this happens, the information will remain in your credit history. But your efforts don’t have to stop there. If you still think the information is wrong, continue to pursue the issue with the creditor. In addition, you should compose a statement of 100 words or less explaining your dispute and send it to all three credit bureaus. The statement will become part of your credit record and will appear on your credit report for as long as the disputed item. You may also use the 100 word statement to explain why you haven’t paid an undisputed bill, as long as the reason is true. For example, a divorce, illness, or death in the family may have caused a delay or a break in your scheduled payments.

Take a step in the right direction

Seven to ten years is a long time to live with black marks on your credit. The good news is that there are steps you can take NOW that will help you to re-establish your reputation as a responsible credit user.

Need to tune up your credit? Check out our do-it yourself Credit Repair Manual here!

Reading a Report

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Once you’ve obtained a copy of your credit report, you’ll be able to see what your creditors are saying about you. There’s just one problem — credit reports can be a little confusing. In the following paragraphs you’ll find a step-by-step explanation of how to read and interpret each section of your credit report.

I.D. Section

Here you’ll find identifying information like your:

* name
* current address
* social security number
* date of birth
* spouse’s name (if applicable)

Easy, right? But don’t just skim over this section. Read all the entries to make sure everything is correct. One bad piece of information and the credit history listed on your report could be wrong.

Credit History Section

This is the meat of the report. It contains a list of your open and paid credit accounts and indicates any late payments reported by your creditors. Although it may seem a little tedious, it’s essential that you read through this section very thoroughly. If you find any information that is incorrect or accounts that don’t belong to you, you’ll need to submit a dispute letter to the credit-reporting agency.

The basic format for the credit history section (see sample) is as follows:

* Company Name – identifies the company that is reporting the information.

* Account Number – lists your account number with the company.

* Whose Account – Indicates who is responsible for the account and the type of participation you have with the account. Abbreviations may vary depending on the reporting agency but here are some of the most common:

o I – Individual
o U – Undesignated
o J – Joint
o A – Authorized User
o M – Maker
o T – Terminated
o C – Co-maker/Co-signer
o S – Shared

* Date Opened – This is the month and year you opened the account with the credit grantor.

* Months Reviewed – Lists the number of months the account history has been reported.

* Last Activity – Indicates the date of the last activity on the account. This may be the date of your last payment or last charge.

* High Credit – Represents the highest amount charged or the credit limit. If the account is an installment loan, the original loan amount will be listed.

* Terms – For installment loans, the number of installments may be listed or the amount of the monthly payments. For revolving accounts, this column is often left blank.

* Balance – Indicates the amount owed on the account at the time it was reported.

* Past Due – This column lists any amount past due at the time the information was reported.

* Status – A combination of letters and numbers are used to indicate the type of account of the timeliness of payment.

Abbreviations for the type of account are as follows:

o O – Open
o R – Revolving
o I – Installment
o Abbreviations for Timeliness of Payment varies among agencies. Numbers are used to represent how current you are in your payments. Current or paid as agreed is usually represented by 0 or 1. Larger numbers (up to 9) indicate that an account is past due.
* Date Reported – Indicates the last time information on this account was updated by your creditor.

Collection Accounts Section

If you’ve had any accounts referred to collection agencies in the last seven years, this is where they will be reported. The name of the collection agency will be listed along with the amount you owe and, in some cases, their contact information. If a collection is listed on your report that doesn’t look familiar to you, contact the credit bureau and submit a dispute letter.

For your own piece of mind, you may also want to contact the collection agency to determine the nature of the account. Here’s why.

* You may find out that the collection account is NOT yours. Perhaps it belongs to someone whose name or social security number is very similar to yours. If this is the case, ask the collection agency to acknowledge this fact in writing. They should send a copy of the letter to you AND the credit reporting agency so that the mistaken information can be cleared from your report.

* You may find out that the collection account IS yours. If so, it is in your best interest to determine the accuracy of the amount of the collection account and make arrangements to satisfy your obligation as quickly as possible. Once the collection account has been paid, you should request a letter from the collection agency to this effect. Again, make sure the credit reporting agency gets a copy of the letter so that they can list the account as paid.

Courthouse Records Section

This section may also be referred to as Public Records. Here you’ll find a listing of public record items (obtained from local, state and federal courts) that reflect your history of meeting financial obligations. These include:

* Bankruptcy records
* Tax liens
* Judgments
* Collection accounts
* Overdue child support (in some states)

Look closely at all the information listed here. If anything is mistaken, contact the credit bureau and submit a dispute letter.
Additional Information

This section consists primarily of former addresses and past employers as reported by your creditors.
Inquiry Section

Contains a list of the businesses that have received your credit report in the last 24 months. If you find the names of businesses that sound unfamiliar, you should find out who they are and why they’re looking at your credit! The credit-reporting agency may be able to help you with contact information. Remember, only companies that have received your written authorization should be able to check your credit history.
Time information is retained

The length of time that information remains in your file varies.

* Credit and collection accounts will be reported for 7 years from the date of the last activity with the original creditor.
* If you’ve filed a Chapter 7 or Chapter 11 bankruptcy, this information will be reported for 10 years from the date filed.
* All other courthouse records will be reported for 7 years from date filed.
Need to tune up your credit? Check out our do-it yourself Credit Repair Manual here!

Ordering a Report

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What are your creditors saying about you? Hopefully, only good things. But there is one way to know for sure. You must obtain a copy of your credit report and luckily, that’s easy to do.

Your first step is to contact one of the major credit reporting bureaus — that’s right, there’s more than one. But you don’t necessarily have to order a copy from all of them. So how do you decide which one gets your business? Here are a few good rules to follow.

* If you’ve been turned down for credit, you’ll receive a declination letter with the name of the credit bureau that provided information to the creditor. You can obtain your credit report from that agency free of charge within 60 days. Just send them a letter requesting a copy of your report (see the following sample letter) along with a copy of your denial letter.

* If you’re just curious as to what your credit report is saying about you, consumers in 13 western states can now receive a free credit report annually from each of the three credit reporting agencies, Experian, TransUnion, and Equifax. Additional states will be included quarterly throughout the year:

Midwestern states: March 1, 2005
Southern states: June 1, 2005
Eastern states: September 1, 2005

There are three ways to order your free credit reports:
1. Order from the only authorized site, www.annualcreditreport.com
2. Call 877/322-8228
3. Download a form from Experian, TransUnion, or Equifax, fill it out, and mail it to:

Annual Credit Report Request Service
P.O. Box 105281
Atlanta, GA 30348-5281

* If you request a copy of your report from one agency and find that it contains incorrect or outdated information, it is a good idea to obtain reports from the other two agencies as well. This will allow you to compare the information and resolve any problems simultaneously.

You can contact each agency directly:
o Equifax Credit Information Service
P.O. Box 105873, Atlanta, GA 30348
1-800-685-1111
www.equifax.com

o Experian
ATTN: NCAC
P.O. Box 2104, Allen, TX 75013-2104
1-888-397-3742
www.experian.com

o Trans Union
P.O. Box 390, Springfield, PA 19064-0390
1-800-916-8800
www.transunion.com
Need to tune up your credit? Check out our do-it yourself Credit Repair Manual here!

Assessing Credit Risk

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There are several factors that go into assessing risk but the most important is your payment history. If you’ve paid all your accounts on time and as agreed, you will probably be considered a low risk. On the other hand, if you’ve had numerous late payments or even collection accounts, your risk factor goes up.

Another thing that creditors consider when assessing risk is the amount of outstanding debt you have — too much and you appear to be overextended which makes you a higher risk.

Other indicators of risk include:

* Length of credit history
If your credit history is too short, there is not much of a picture for potential creditors to look at. In other words, you have not yet proven yourself. Because of this, you may be considered a higher risk.

* Pursuit of new credit
Too many inquiries and it looks like you’re racking up too much credit. Potential creditors see this as a negative because you may be creating a situation where you are overextended and that may affect your ability to repay them.

Need to tune up your credit? Check out our do-it yourself Credit Repair Manual here!

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